Write-up in the Weekend Telegraph
Some excepts from Alice Thomson's column:
"At Brown & Forrest.....Mrs Beeton would have adored it. This is her perfect family lunch. We ordered everything. The soup...was made from winter vegetables taken from the farm. It was fierce and peppery, the stock was exquisite and the vegetables crunchy. The eel fillets had been smoked over beech and apple and came on a slice of rye bread with a wedge of lemon and......it brought out the creaminess of the eel. The lamb came warm, with redcurrant jelly and tasted like a fine carpaccio, lightly seared. It went perfectly with the plain boiled potatoes, green salad and surprisingly good Kiwi fruit. I tried the hot smoked salmon steak, which had been marinated in sherry, soya, garlic and ginger then smoked on oak. It was so light and flaky that I finished it and still managed to taste a few wafers of smoked duck."
And from Belinda Richardsons column:
"she was dead right, that waitress, there is not a seat left in the house now and I am stuck with two puddings, so which to start with? The lemon and ginger tart or the bread and butter pudding? Doubtlessly the wrong way round, I go for the pudding first because, out of the two, it is the ugly duckling. But it is a corker. No raisins, just syrup, bread butter eggs and milk. This is the sort of thing Scott and Oats should have taken with them to the south pole. It doesn't end there. Shocking I know, but I could have had two of those lemon and ginger tarts. Served at the perfect temperature, the texture is a gritty mix of almonds and polenta, and the shards of minutely grated lemon versus ginger tickle my palate all the way to the moon. No mater how much I beg the friendly waitress she will not give me the secret recipe."